As an avid thrifter and reseller of vintage fashions and objects, many pieces I find or salvage are made from leather. I also support contemporary brands with a sustainable business model and they offer leather goods as well. But, is leather truly part of the sustainability movement? I break down my thoughts on the subject below, so feel free to conduct your own research. This article contains sponsored links that may earn me a commission when products are purchased. However, the ideas are my own!
Have a Pleasant Day
-Rae Pleasant
Vegan Leather
Pleather is what we called fake leather back in my day, but it has been rebranded as faux leather or vegan leather. The ‘P’ stands for PVC (polyvinyl chloride) which is a type of sturdy plastic that is coated over fabric to make the pleather. This particular plastic is not sustainable nor is it healthy for the environment. The marketing points in favor of pleather include cheap production, resulting in cheap retail prices, and animal friendliness. However, Pleather is worse for the planet than real leather in my opinion. PVC fashion products have a shorter life span compared to leather because they begin to crack and split apart after frequent use. PVC molecules break down over time, while releasing toxins, making the material weaker until it becomes unstructured and useless. Clumps of lifeless waste are all that remain in landfills…for thousands of years. However, PVC is not biodegradable and will never become one with the Earth or contribute nutrients back to it.
Some hope for plastics include biodegradable vegetable or bamboo plastics, but PVC is not made from these materials. In some cases, existing plastics can be recycled into new items; like fabric made from recycled plastic bottles. Microplastics are microscopic bits of plastic that have been forcibly broken down by scientists in a controlled environment to reduce the volume of plastic in the world. However, PVC is not known for these qualities or capabilities. So, my opinion is…vegan leather (pleather) is some bullsh!t! It’s like using plastic bags at the grocery store to save a tree. But, please conduct your own research to learn more and choose what is best for you!
The pleather (vinyl) sleeves of this vintage letterman’s jacket in my inventory collection have started to degrade. The surface is moist and sticky making the jacket unwearable.
I will have to take this jacket to a tailor and have the sleeves completely replaced with a new material.
Update: I learned about a new technology that makes synthetic leather from recycled polyester made from water bottles and VEG Technology which uses bio-polyols derived from plants. There are also cork leathers and leathers made from fruit!
New Leather Items
The purchase of a new, real leather item should be a lifelong commitment. This is because real leather made from animal hide can last generations if cared for properly. Depending on how it was processed and treated, it can be less harmful as it deteriorates or it can bio-disintegrate. Moisturizing, cleaning, and water proofing leather goods can make them last decades as useful, sturdy items. I used to carry a contemporary leather messenger bag everyday for eight years before I donated it. Sustainability also means the product itself is long-lasting so that less products are manufactured and consumed, leaving a smaller mark on the planet.
My foot in a mule from ABLE, Nashville, TN
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Vegetable Dyed and Naturally Tanned Leather
Contemporary or vintage leather that has been dried and tanned in the sun, processed without toxic chemicals, or dyed with vegetable based pigments are a better alternative. Many times these eco-friendlier steps go hand in hand. However, such leathers will require more care with moisturizing or waxing for protection after purchase and throughout its lifespan. I have wiped off my leathers with a very damp rag and let them dry, then I have treated them with a conditioner or wax polish and let it cure. I try to store my leather items in a cloth sack, covered rack, or closet when not in use to reduce dust and dirt.
The bottom of this vintage tapestry bag seems to be naturally tanned.
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The scratches, marks, and pen ink indicate this is a soft, naturally tanned leather. And, a bag that was well loved!
Carcass Salvaging and Secondary Salvaging
There are animals killed exclusively for their fur, hide, or meat and the rest of the carcass is left to rot. Many cultures before colonization practiced carcass salvaging and nearly every part of an animal was used, in numerous ways, so that nothing was wasted. Teeth, bones, organs, hide, fat, and meat were carefully and naturally processed to benefit humans and animals alike. Sourcing contemporary leather for garments, bags, or shoes from carcass salvaged hide takes several industries working together, but it is possible and sustainable. Saddleback Leather Company is based in Fort Worth, TX and their leather is sourced from beef cattle or hog.
Upcycling or recycling older leather products can be a form of ‘secondary salvaging’. I have been crafting with scraps of leather for several years. I’ve jumped out the car and taken a knife to an old couch on the side of the road and I’ve asked upholstery companies for scraps and defects.
Secondary carcass salvaging: An old leather jacket from a thrift store and reused for scraps. This quilt was made with pieces from the jacket. I crafted the pouch below from upholstery scraps.
Vintage and Secondhand Leather
Vintage leather goods are incredibly sustainable because new animals are not killed (if animal rights are your priority). Vintage leather products can also be much cheaper than contemporary products. If cared for properly, with repairing, cleaning, moisturizing, and protecting, vintage leather items should be as sturdy as ever. A good shoe cobbler is capable of repairing or treating many leather goods from shoes to purses and belts. Suede must be cared for much differently and functions closer to fabric, so please consult a professional. A brush and protective spray are what I typically employ.
Check the PF Shoppe for vintage and secondhand leather goods
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The ethics of leather in regard to eco-friendly fashion is valid. I made this post to share a few new ways to look at leather from a sustainable perspective. Feel free to conduct your own research to learn what’s best for you!
Leather conditioner from ABLE, Nashville, TN
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Women’s commuter bag from ABLE, Nashville, TN
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Men’s duffle bag from Saddleback Leather Company, Fort Worth, TX
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